24 Feb 2012

New York Fashion Week

Now New York Fashion Week is over, and we’ve seen countless A/W collections, it would be impossible to talk about every collection I liked. So, I’ve chosen three favourites-Oscar de la Renta, Herve Leger, and Bagley Mishka.
Oscar de la Renta
“Today’s women don’t dress for seasons” – De la Renta explained the pale blue and pink that features in his collection. The dresses had a very youthful look about them; not just the pastel colours but the shapes and styles – short, girlie skirts that puffed out with fitted tops, which were very reminiscent of prom dresses and very different from the classic looks Oscar usually exhibits.
Favourites included a gorgeous voluminous ball gown in pale blue, with a dipped hem and dozens of layers of fabric and a beautiful pale pink dress which had a narrower, sleeker silhouette, complete with embellishment on the top- adding a little bit of detail while still keeping it simple.

Oscar de la Renta blue dress

Oscar de la Renta pink dress

While the collection had lots of hits, there were a couple of misses. One pale pink ball gown looked like it had walked straight out of a Disney film, looking more like a child’s costume party than couture.

Oscar de la Renta dress-something out of a Disney film?

Other than the youthful collection, the designer has shown other signs of appealing to a younger audience by utilising social media. Attendees of the show were given details of #theboard – a mood board online which anyone can contribute to – to help the designer with inspiration for his next collection.
A clever move, to an audience that is more and more dependant of social media, and moving into the growing world of image sharing, Oscar has shown us he still knows how to appeal to the masses.
Herve Leger by Max Azaria
With the starting point of each Herve Leger collection being the bandage dress, it is always a wonder what the designer will do with it next.  The autumn winter collection debuted on the third day of New York Fashion Week; he described the collection as “a study in seduction and restraint”.

Herve Leger bondage dress

The dresses peeked out from underneath leather harnesses, feeling very equestrian-inspired. The leather also featured in gladiator style boots coming up to the knee. The collection also included feather trims and black leather python jackets.

Herve Leger equestrian style dress

All in all this was a tough, darker look contrasting with the feminine dresses.
The biggest changes from previous collections were the different types of dresses included. Azaria has branched out and this season featured variants in the body-con style he is famous for. Pleating, which made skirts flip out helped create a completely different silhouette.  The prints also were interesting; with stripes and jacquard print complimenting the tough accessories well.
Badgley Mischka
Badgley and Mischka channelled a 1930’s theme; very Hollywood, very luxurious. It’s a change from the volume they usually put in their collections, the dresses this time round were much leaner and longer. The designers were inspired by the 1920’s German film “Metropolis”; and the costumes the women wore in it.
Metallics were heavily used; with colours like bronze and gold, as well as more classic black and navy. The accessories kept in with the vintage theme, fur trims and stoles complimented the dresses. A more modern twist was put on the classic looking dresses with cut-out shoulders and arms, giving the models the impression of wearing long gloves when it was in fact part of the dress.

Badgley Mischka-detail from a dress

The stand out dress of the show was a gold sequined number, complete with intricate chain draping on the shoulders and back.

Images taken from Style.com

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